Most of you may recall the Chevy big-block buildup we did last year with a mid-'60s at Speed-O-Motive May ' Well, while hp may be sufficient for some, this Rat wasn't satisfied with Mouse numbers. As mentioned in the story, the valvetrain would eventually be addressed, swapping out the mild cam and springs to give the now cubic-inch engine more elbowroom.

Well, eventually is now the present, and we're about to see what this workhorse really has in her. We didn't want to overstay our welcome, so we decided to take the out to Steve Brule at Westech in Mira Loma, California, for round two with the big-block. After seeing the numbers the engine produced, he was sure he could easily get an additional 75hp, if not more, with a relatively simple cam, valvespring, intake manifold, and carburetor swap.

As a matter of fact, he was more determined than ever since he suspected something might be going on internally, something that limited peak horsepower the first go-around. Once we dropped the engine off, Steve first performed a leak-down just to see if there was any truth to his suspicions. Later that day, we got a call from him with the news, "20 percent on all eight cylinders.

Obviously, the heads needed to be pulled to further probe the situation-and once they were, Steve's intuition was dead on, as each piston was evenly coated with oil. There was no turning back from here After Steve pulled the first piston out, what had been holding the engine back was finally revealed.

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Without getting into too much detail, it turned out the individual who initially started the project had ordered, and subsequently installed, the wrong size rings undersized, with a 0. Had we run the engine on their dyno a few more times, we would have seen the peak horsepower numbers decrease each run, which would have tipped us on to any potential problems.

However, we didn't want to bog down their dyno for too long, so we were content with the initial runs, paid our bill, and went on our merry way.

It should be noted that Speed-O-Motive offered to fix the problem when they learned of it, even though it was not their fault. OK, so the problem was isolated and, fortunately, the fix was simple-install new rings and move on. And that's what Steve did-he ordered the correct rings, installed them, and buttoned the lower block back up. Now we could finally get to getting And being that the engine was a little light on the spring side, he strongly suggested COMP's Beehive valve- springs.

The valvetrain upgrade also included new lifters, pushrods, and roller rockers, and while he was at it, he swapped the gear drive for one of COMP's double-roller timing chains.Discussion in ' Engine Topic ' started by haknoApr 21, Building a replica L78 Hp engine?

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Apr 21, 1. Messages: 51 Likes Received: 0. Apr 21, 2. Messages: 14, Likes Received: 7. GM stock rect port heads and rect low-rise intakeand numbered Holley are expensive. Your oval port open chamber heads are a PLUS in power.

RPM air gap a DP and a 2" or so cowl hood would get you the hp you want. Use a as the short block and is easy. Apr 21, 3. Thanks, I would like to aim for more compression, about But I know the selection of dome pistons for the block is narrow, in fact I have not been able to find any suitable pistons. Will run on 98 octane petrol. I do have a cowl hood, L At the same time I would like the engine to look fairly stock on the outside, no high rise intake.

Apr 21, 4. Casting number on the heads: Block casting Apr 23, 5. Messages: Likes Received: 7. Hakno Agree with Hot on this, build aand make it look like whatever you want it to, and most likely more higher compression pistons available at a better cost.

Now, if you're still hell bent on the hp, here's some numbers below, however most are not budget minded pistons. You could also go to Classracer. Last edited: Apr 23, Apr 23, 6. Messages: 1, Likes Received: 3. Since you already have theyour options are somewhat limited. When you say you want to build an L78 replica, do you mean correct casting numbers, date coded parts, correct GM intake, or do you want to build something that LOOKS like an L78 from 10 feet way?

Apr 25, 7. Messages: 12, Likes Received: 2. Apr 25, 8. Messages: 1, Likes Received: Why do you need compression? The "real" compression of a genuine L78 wasn't as high as the factory said it was. You will have to run premium gas and likely an octane booster as well.

Iron heads get HOT and they do not like a lot of compression.Compare at. We make sure we hit our target horsepower and proper torque with every crate engine. We use an advanced computerized balancer to get our rotating assemblies within two grams, ensuring silky smooth power over the entire RPM range.

Vintage Road Test: How Tough Was the 1966 Chevrolet Chevelle SS396?

That's precisely why our engines sound and run better than our competitors. A Comprehensive, dyno-generated printout showing these critical specs will accompany your delivered engine.

No more guessing or wondering what your installed engine's real-world peak horsepower and torque ratings actually are. Any doubters in the crowd? Simply flash 'em your dyno results!

Recommended Fuel: 91 Octane. The satisfaction of our customers is our highest priority at BluePrint Engines. We use quality components to balance your engine's rotating assembly within two grams of spec. We dyno test your crate engine and certify that it's ready to deliver horsepower and torque. We give your BluePrint engine the industry's best-in-class warranty for 30 months or 50, miles — with the extra confidence only BluePrint can provide.

Our warranty applies to individual or professional installations, is fully transferable, and covers engines worldwide. Your BluePrint engine was dyno tested with the parts and specifications listed below. If you prefer to install a different part, your engine may not produce the horsepower recorded on your dyno sheet.

396 dyno

Click here to download a copy of the Installation Guide that came with your BluePrint engine. Sales: Service: Sales: Service: Contact us.

Cam Specs: Cam Type: Roller. Add to Cart. Customer Reviews Based on 2 reviews Write a review. Add Ons.When we left off last time, AntiVenom had just dropped in a set of Lunati solid roller lifters to complete the cid LT1 long-block. If you recall, this is no sleeper combination. To cap off this high-revving street combo, we got in touch with Edelbrock for a small-block Chevy Victor E intake manifold and elbow.

Meanwhile, the folks at Harland Sharp hooked us up with a special set of offset rocker arms for our high-flowing AFR cc heads.

Without these key components, all our previous efforts would have been for naught. Last but not least, Canton Racing shipped us a tall set of valve covers to clear the rockers and an oil pan to reduce windage.

Though it was tempting to just bolt this beast into the car, with so many custom elements it seems like we were confronted with new issues every day. The carb flows more air with better velocity than the degree elbow and 90mm throttle body we had planned, however, the stock ignition might hurt us. In order for AFR to fit those massive 2. Thankfully, Harland Sharp makes offset rocker arms in a 1.

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Each rocker arm body is machined in-house from T aluminum and fitted with steel components such as a knurled pin and centerless ground, and pivots on 27 needle bearings with a heat-treated and black oxidized assembly. However, the unique cylinder head design made the typical SBC girdle incompatible. The ideal pushrod length turned out to be a massive 8.

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However, for the flat, adjustable pushrod guideplates we had to dip into the Comp Cams catalog PN It needs to be complemented with a healthy dollop of silicone at the corners to seal properly. A tapered cross section, larger plenum, and runner volume made it ideal for 4, rpm operating range. And it even came with injector bungs. Step one of converting an SBC manifold to work on the reverse-flow cooling LT1 is to chop off the part that holds water. Smoothing out the intake to get it to look right after that takes much more time.

While he was at it, Greg Lovell, AntiVenom owner port-matched the intake to the heads. The mismatch was particularly bad and required going 3 inches up the port. Windage on an LT1 is not something to be overlooked either.

The triple trap door baffle keeps the pickup submerged with oil under all conditions. Meanwhile, the crank scraper and windage tray are what really frees up power. Getting the pan properly spaced for the extra long stroke takes some trial and error. Lunati recommended that valve lash be set at 0. On the positive side, it is an area you can play with in the search of more power.

These fabricated aluminum pieces are a nice piece of eye candy and provide plenty of room for the bulky rocker arms.

396 dyno

With the Edelbrock elbow on you can get a sense for what this engine will look like in the Impala with the 58x system calling the shots. The carb later proved to be a little undersized for our purposes, but the jetting was nearly perfect right out of the box.

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Since this engine would deviate from stock in a number of ways, including the accessory drive bracket, Greg was able to use the front water port on the heads to go directly to the water pump using a -6 AN and simply plug the back ports.

This percent underdrive balancer frees up a few horsepower, but its main purpose is to protect our Scat rotating assembly and bearings from torsional vibrations.After a drag test of this Glacier Blue '69 Chevelle SS, we decided a trip to the chassis dyno to eek some more power out of this bad boy was needed.

396 dyno

The results may surprise you. In this day and age, when money is tight and the economy forces us to tighten our belts, we're all about free horsepower. While the big stroker fat-block is cool, along with that honking blower, if the money isn't there, then you have to go about adding power the old-fashioned way-through dyno tuning.

Penultimate LT1, Part 2: Finishing and Dyno Testing Our 396 Gen II

With that in mind, we tackled the task of trying to add as much power as we could to this dream machine, a '69 Chevelle SS packing the legendary big-block. Not the hp version, this car's near-stock hp engine was in need of some power. The owner was thrilled with his new toy, but less than ecstatic when it clicked off midsecond elapsed times at the drag strip. We wanted to see what this bad boy made to the rear tires.

Equipped with a stock Quadrajet, and only enhanced with an Edelbrock 2. In addition to seeing what the car made near-stock trim and what we could squeeze out of it, we also decided to pit the Quadrajet enter your favorite detracting name here against a pair of Holley carbs we had lying around.

Thankfully, Holley shipped out a cfm Street Avenger carb for us to play with. After adjusting the mixture screws on the the Quadrajet, the pumped out corrected horsepower and lb-ft of torque. With found the base timing coming in at 42 degrees overall, so this was the first tweak.

We added 8 degrees, bringing the timing total to We let the car rip again, and found six horsepower, bringing the total tobut more importantly the torque figure checked in at lb-ft, a solid 10 lb-ft improvement. With the Quadrajet pushing out as much as it could, we swapped to the big boy of the bunch, the HP. After modifying the fuel lines as needed, we let the big-block sing once again, and even though the engine was now, as overheard by onlookers, "pig rich", the Chevelle eked out horsepower and lb-ft of torque.

While we gained one horsepower and seven lb-ft of torque, the HP would certainly have proven to be more favorable if the Rat was inhaling through something like an Edelbrock Performer RPM and exhaling through a set of headers instead of factory manifolds. Last but not least was the cfm vacuum secondary Street Avenger carb supplied by Holley. We slapped this puppy on, rigged the electric choke to stay open, and fired the fat-block Chevelle up.

After playing with the mixture screws, we stood on the loud pedal, where the equipped recorded hp and lb-ft of torque.

The Chevelle missed the horsepower mark, though, recording rear wheel horsepower and lb-ft of torque. Overall, we spent a day at the dyno with a big-block Chevelle, and drove out with seven horsepower and 17 lb-ft of torque more than what we went there with. While we could have spent the money on either of the Holley carbs and made respectable power, but adjusting the mixture screws on the Quadrajet and adding timing to the engine, we picked up 10 lbs-ft of torque and six horsepower just by tuning what we had on the car when we got to the dyno.

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For the price of what it would cost to have your muscle car chassis-dynoed and tuned, we would say it's money well spent. Treat your classic Corvette to a professional dyno shop super tune. We upgrade the cooling system in our big-block—powered Camaro using a Frostbite aluminum radiator, dual SPAL electric fans, and a Weiand water pump. In part 3 of our junkyard 4. Here are the 14 known, functioning mid-engine Corvette engineering, concept, and racing cars.

Chevrolet Performance offers turnkey engine swap options that get you back on the road and into horsepower in a weekend. Here are 10 engine bearing clearance tips to consider before building your next engine. Chevrolet Performance SP crate engine, nitrous combination dyno test and cam swap at Westech Performance. Super Chevy. How To.

Cicerale Apr 1, Share.Steve Magnante's buildup and dyno test of a factory-spec L78 in this issue www. What we found was Eric Dahlquist's review of a big-block Chevelle in the February issue.

396 dyno

But the faithful still remembered "when she was real fine, thatand how Dyno Don Nicholson and Frank Sanders put 'em back on their heels at the drags in '61 with their first demonstrations of what a stocker could do.

That Daytona Mystery Motor was the forebear of the production engine in Dahlquist's Chevy, "the semi-hemi, porcupine top, 4. Unlike Magnante's hp dyno motor, the engine in Dahlquist's tester was the midrange L34, rated at hp due to lower compression, a different cast iron intake manifold, smaller ports in the heads, and a hydraulic valvetrain with a milder cam.

It was joined to a Muncie wide-ratio four-speed manual and 3. For most of the car's loan period it was raining in Los Angeles, so Dahlquist talks about the effectiveness of the windshield wipers, how tightly the car sealed against the wet weather, and how sketchy the drum brakes were when wet. The sky cleared eventually, and that's when he took the car to San Fernando for some dragstrip testing. He put the car on the track without the magazine's typical strip tune-up, save for a tweak to the Holley four-barrel—disassembly of the vacuum diaphragm housing—to get the secondaries to open sooner.

The day was cool and the car faced a mph headwind. The Uniroyal Tiger Paws didn't get much bite, and the car initially ran This done, the machine recorded a better We realized that without the benefit of adequate dragging skins and a proper collector system, you can't expect miracles, but the wind and cold track had something to do with it, too.

The "without adequate dragging skins" comment is interesting because we found an outtake seen here of the Chevelle's trunk full of the aforementioned bleach, traction compound, and a pair of Casler slicks. Maybe they didn't fit. Maybe Dahlquist ran out of time. Not sure. He summed up the Chevelle by calling it "the type of vehicle we hated to part with. It has just the right measures of ride-handling and acceleration that would make it the nuts for all kinds of driving, especially long trips.

It's a fun car for today's dull traffic, and if it helps relieve the tedium of travel, you can't ask much more. Share on Facebook Share on Twitter.With everyone going off the deep end these days and drowning in monster cubic inch motors it seemed like a good idea to try and regain our senses if you can call 'em that.

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It's easy to get carried away when the bench racing gets started or especially after throttling the gas around town in something with ponies to spare and the tires smokin'. But do we all need hp for the street? Around 10 years ago vintage big-block Chevy motors were in high demand and fetched equal money to restorers as well as hot rodders wanting the high-quality iron for their powerhouses.

A couple of presidents and a few hundred horsepower later and you can order something equal to that motor or one that sinks it over the phone that incorporates the latest in new and precision parts-blocks included.

Granted, you'll still be out a fair amount of green for something of this modern variety and that's kinda short around here, so what about the motors that are being looked over now like all those vintage Rat motors? We know you automatically get a bunch more cubes if you start a big-block project with abut could a hold its own in today's world? The staff at Speed-O-Motive knows engines probably better than the back of their own hands and they have the experience to prove it!

They can do WHATEVER you wanna do with your motor from hot tanking to dyno services, or you can just order a complete motor to be dropped off at your house. Well, they looked at us a little weird when we told them what we wanted to do, but decided to go along for the ride.

We told George Ullrich that we were looking for something that would be streetable and fun to stomp on and could also be easily upgraded as more power was needed. It seems that much of this build could be mirrored for the other displacement big-blocks and went together fairly easily once our core was deemed fit by Speed-O-Motive.


Even though all these parts are going into what could be considered an antique motor, it doesn't mean all the companies involved have stopped improving these parts-in fact it's quite the opposite. With all the advancement in computer-aided design and manufacturing, these parts will make older motors run better than ever with more performance and reliability! With these advancements, though, some things like installation methods might have changed since you last put an engine together, so throwing away the directions is not Step 1 anymore and never should've been.

It's all in the details. We've tried to touch on some of these examples in the following pages, but our space is limited, so check out these companies' Web sites and paperwork for more cool in-depth tech, theory, and the reasons for these new ideas and products.

In the end, we got what we wanted on the dyno-a solid motor with enough grunt to keep us happy for a while and the room for growth when we're ready for a louder pedal. After six dyno runs we came up with these numbers: the peak torque settled into Adding 3 degrees of advance in the timing from the original pull did yield and extended rpm range that went to 5, rpm and got us an additional The HP and torque numbers are smooth all the way through its max RPM and shows that we have a stump puller on our hands.

With a solid bottom end, the valvetrain would be the next logical place to beef up and squeeze some more rpms out with a bigger cam and stiffer valvesprings since it pretty much said "no" after 5,